- Joined
- Jul 9, 2023
- Messages
- 110
well, the new shop is not yet ready, so i will start with the old shop. it is a old gutted out camper, with my CNC machine in the back, and a mess everywhere else.
as the new shop is not ready, i will have to take out the A/C and re-install the RV furnace for winter heat. this time, i will tie the thermostat input into my automation/alarm system, so i can start the furnace remotely if needed, though i would need to leave the gas turned on for that. i plan on taking the regulators out of my other camper, too, and use those with the furnace.
the new shop is covered now. the pic above was before the top cover went on. 8-foot step-ladder for scale.
still to do... i need to build up the two end walls with studs, build and install a double door, test and install the oil furnace i bought, install an electrical panel, and wire some outlets and lights. and that's all before even the machine goes in, say nothing about insulating the shed...
the furnace will just sit on a base that has a deflector to push the air out, rather than just onto the floor. i may duct it toward front for more even heating.
the machine will sit about the center of the shed, leaving room behind to work on the furnace, and room all around to work on the machine. the control computer will be on the front right of the machine, with the control panel and pendant storage to the left. it will be able to roll around anyway.
the main control cabinet will be behind the machine, on the wall. likely beside, but not close to, the furnace.
compressed air will be supplied from the garage, via 3/4in PEX, or larger. it will be sloped so water drains back into collection in the shop. this will need to be in the warm office of the garage shop, so it won't freeze up. the reason for the 3/4in PEX is so that if water freezes, it takes longer to freeze the pipe solid. wouldn't hurt to have pipe insulation, and a heat-tape, perhaps.
power coming in will be 240V @ no less than 30A. i could, to start, use just the 10AWG wire powering the old shop. the biggest power draw will be from the dust collection system. next, the 4.5KW 3PH 220V spindle, and the machine itself, computer, and the LED lighting. if i can figure out how to tap into the garage-shop dust-collection system, i can run on even less power. but with much more hassle, as it too would need to be insulated, and a return air system brought back. really, too much hassle.
that dust collector is 120V @ 15A, 2HP 1550CFM. i think it would work very well, if i can figure out a dust-shoe for my machine. though just as a post-run vacuum cleaner, it would work well too.
as the new shop is not ready, i will have to take out the A/C and re-install the RV furnace for winter heat. this time, i will tie the thermostat input into my automation/alarm system, so i can start the furnace remotely if needed, though i would need to leave the gas turned on for that. i plan on taking the regulators out of my other camper, too, and use those with the furnace.
the new shop is covered now. the pic above was before the top cover went on. 8-foot step-ladder for scale.
still to do... i need to build up the two end walls with studs, build and install a double door, test and install the oil furnace i bought, install an electrical panel, and wire some outlets and lights. and that's all before even the machine goes in, say nothing about insulating the shed...
the furnace will just sit on a base that has a deflector to push the air out, rather than just onto the floor. i may duct it toward front for more even heating.
the machine will sit about the center of the shed, leaving room behind to work on the furnace, and room all around to work on the machine. the control computer will be on the front right of the machine, with the control panel and pendant storage to the left. it will be able to roll around anyway.
the main control cabinet will be behind the machine, on the wall. likely beside, but not close to, the furnace.
compressed air will be supplied from the garage, via 3/4in PEX, or larger. it will be sloped so water drains back into collection in the shop. this will need to be in the warm office of the garage shop, so it won't freeze up. the reason for the 3/4in PEX is so that if water freezes, it takes longer to freeze the pipe solid. wouldn't hurt to have pipe insulation, and a heat-tape, perhaps.
power coming in will be 240V @ no less than 30A. i could, to start, use just the 10AWG wire powering the old shop. the biggest power draw will be from the dust collection system. next, the 4.5KW 3PH 220V spindle, and the machine itself, computer, and the LED lighting. if i can figure out how to tap into the garage-shop dust-collection system, i can run on even less power. but with much more hassle, as it too would need to be insulated, and a return air system brought back. really, too much hassle.
35 Gallon, 2 HP High-Flow High-Capacity Dust Collector
Amazing deals on this 35 Gallon 2Hp Hi Flow Dust Collector at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com